By Andrea Daley
The skill of using an airbrush is quite simple! It is like the artist using a paintbrush. It is only a tool. The results are from the imagination and talents of the artist. With the paintbrush the artist loads a brush with paint and the brush becomes the vehicle that carries the paint to a chosen place. The artist does the same with the airbrush, he loads the cup with paint and the
airbrush carries the paint to its chosen place. It is as simple as that!
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There are two different types of airbrushes, one is single action and the other is double action. The single action limits the capabilities of many techniques. It is a straight motion of paint coming forward with no control of the heaviness or size of the spray pattern. When the trigger is pressed, a pre-set amount of fluid is sprayed. Some have a separate adjustment for the air and this adjustment controls the amount of air that comes through. I find these to be clumsy for the use of blending in areas and color matching. These sell for a lower price and it limits the results. The double action allows the artist to adjust the spray size and the amount of paint as it comes out of the brush. Once the skill is mastered, a line as thin as a pencil line can be drawn, or a space can be filled in with a two to three inch spray that will cover a large background. This can be shaded to camouflage an area. The first motion is to push the trigger straight down (this controls the amount of air); the second motion is to pull back (this allows an amount of paint to come through. Both motions control the amount on air and paint.
A general guide for air pressure is to set the regulator on the air tank or compressor at 35 psi. (Pounds of air pressure per square inch) This may fluctuate either way depending on the size of the airbrush, the length of the hose, and the technique you wish to choose. For straight painting this is the pressure that I use. Generally speaking, too much pressure will create an over spray of paint, too little pressure may result in the paint going on too heavy and not flowing out and not covering the way you expect. It also may not have enough pressure to carry some of the heavier body paints such as the lacquers that are so widely used by touch-up, restorative artists. The best is to experience the different situations, and then you can choose what will work best for you.
In order to be successful at using an airbrush, it is imperative to know the anatomy. With every airbrush comes a diagram of its components. Do not be afraid to take it apart. An airbrush is a tool and like all tools it needs to be cleaned. The nature of this process is to be cleaning the airbrush constantly. Do not think that just spraying a cleaner through it after its use is going to have it thoroughly cleaned. Approximately every 5 minutes I stop and clean my brush; with every paint change, I clean my brush; if a paint mixture is too heavy, I clean my brush; after it spits or does not flow evenly, I clean my brush; when I am finished, I thoroughly clean by taking it semi-apart and clean in and around all the facets of were any paint may have lodged. Sometimes paint travels into other parts so the entire airbrush needs to be disassembled. The latest airbrush that I have purchased is the Aztec. It can be found in all hobby shops (retails for approximately $129.00) or you can order one through Jerry's Artarama at 800 827-8478 for approximately $69.00).
I find myself doing less cleaning with this airbrush than with any of the others I have (Iwata, Badger, Pache, Thayer Chandler), and cleaning is easier to do. They have designed this airbrush with fewer parts and the parts are made of plastic, so the paint
naturally does not stick to it as paint does to the metal ones. When thoroughly cleaning it, it releases any entrapped parts easier. Another great feature of this airbrush is that it has little tops that come with the different cups. When painting at an angle, no more worry of your paint spilling out onto you piece. (The name "Fisher Price" should be on it.) I find the other double action airbrushes will perform better for the detailed or critical techniques of painting. I have both, but use my Aztec for approximately 90% of my work. It is also the least expensive and comes with a video. Just understand that part of the process of painting with an airbrush is cleaning. You are doing nothing wrong when your airbrush gets clogged! Most beginners, at first become frustrated, thinking it is they that are creating the problem. It is not. When I paint I just go through the motion of cleaning, unconscious of the process; for me it has all become part of the procedure. Clean, clean, clean!
To summarize:
The first thing to do after purchasing an airbrush is to read all the information that comes with it. Look over the layout of all its parts. Realize that you will need to get familiar with them. Make sure that the air hose attachments are secured with Teflon tape. (Teflon tape can be purchase at any plumbers supply section of a hardware store) This will prevent any air leakage. Always apply the tape to the very end of the metal tip, you would not want any of it to dislodge and get caught in the airbrush. Make sure there is no air leakage from the hose itself. I once burnt out an air compressor because I did not realize that my hose had
become brittle from age and developed air leaks through out the length. I was not aware of these air leaks. I checked all my fittings with soapy water, to see if any bubble were created from the solution. It took me a while to figure out what was happening, because I could hear no noise of air coming out. I had just switched to a silent compressor, and thought it was
the nature of the new machine to keep running. Experience; it's how we learn!
Any compressor will work, as long as it has a storage tank. Inexpensive ones can be purchased at Home Depots, they sell for $200.00. The important thing is that it has a storage tank. If you bleed off of a direct feed compressor, it will be difficult to get an even spray. This is critical in partial/spot restoration. Also a direct feed builds up condensation in the air hose. If you are using anything other than water base paints it will mix moisture with the paint and will cause the paint to lift and peel. It also will make funny little spray paint designs when it is blown on to the surface. As extra precaution attach a water extractor in-between the air source and the hose. If you are using lacquers, this is necessary part of the equipment. They run approximately $20.00
Developing the skills of using an airbrush will take time. It is in the process of using the airbrush that you will learn the techniques. I use white grease resistant paper plates, to place my paints on and to work from. They are disposable, so I do not need to take the time to clean a pallet. Time is money in this business! The cost of each one is 2 cents apiece, which makes it profitable to just toss and reach for another one. To start, you will need to add the paint that you have chosen into the reservoir. (paint cup or bottle)
(If you can find your way to a computer and get online, I offer an introduction class on color matching. I also teach this at the conventions. Once you have either attended a lecture/demo or taken the on-line class, you will be qualified to take the advance class that is offered on-line. Visit the Association of Restorers website at: www.assoc-restorers.com, for details)
After you have chosen the color, then it will need to be adjusted with the thinner (water for water base, lacquer thinner for lacquer and mineral spirits for oils), so it will properly flow through the airbrush. This will take some time to achieve the correct thickness of the paint. Experience will be your teacher at this point. Too thin, and it will run, or it will take too long to build up with paint. Too thick and it will clog the flow of paint. You know what you will have to do at this point; remember it is part of the process. (Clean, clean, and clean) From here, you need to practice. It will come from the doing, just remember to push straight down to start and then pull back. I emphasize this point because if you create the habit of pulling back first you will lodge paint in the airbrush and when you allow the air to come in it will push the paint out and without your control it will splatter over the surface. Remember to push down first and then pull back. Okay you are ready to have some fun!
I suggest to purchase a child's coloring book. First start with containing the spray to within the lines, just like coloring; then practice following the outlines while keeping your spray patterns the same size as the lines. Practice shading sections in, going from light to dark. Practice layering of the colors. Use just the primaries to achieve all the colors of the rainbow. After doing about 5 to 10 pages, you will be ready to paint on an object piece. This exercise will teach you the control of the airbrush. All airbrushes come with information on how to create special effects. Practice these techniques and do the suggested exercises. You will be on your way in no time!
These skills apply to both, the fine porcelain restorer and the wood touch-up artist. Once an under-base color is achieved then detail can be added with water base paints. (There will be classes on airbrush for the beginner and the advanced student. Two of the topics are: "How to Achieve Color through Layering" and "Detail Painting" Please check the site for the date and time.)